Climbing Gardens
Paradise of granite & limestone
Your fingers clasp the rock, you push yourself upwards step by step, hearing nothing but the soft clink of your quickdraws. You have not been this focused for a long time. Not so euphoric either: the 21 climbing gardens with around 750 routes, spread over the entire length of Ötztal, form an Eldorado for climbing fans of all skill levels.
Sport climbing
Multi-pitch routes
Climbing gardens for families and beginners
Several climbing areas are perfect for families with children and beginners. Not just because the routes are easy to master and well secured. But also because of everything surrounding it, for example ample parking area, short access routes and nice places to take a break at the heart of nature (this alone is worth every climbing excursion!). You will even find sanitary facilities at the family-friendly climbing garden in Oberried.
The climbing garden already exists for decades and was completely renovated in 2007. Some easier routes were added. 2012 the climbing garden was expanded with the sector "Jonathan". Thanks to its shady exposure, it is suitable for hot summer days.
The climbing garden Rammelstein can be reached from two sides. When coming from Sautens always follow the road towards the state road. At a small intersection stay on the left and after ca. 500 m there is a small space next to the street (with a bench). Left from there ca. 2 minutes to the rocks in the forest. Coming from the West turn right in the Forchet (before the Ach-Bridge) until you reach the small space next to the street with the bench. Parking next to the street is possible there.
Note: Climbing is limited to April to November from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.!
At the rocks at the village entrance (at the company Thurner Bau), climbing enthusiasts will have a manifold and diverse choice of routes. The climbing garden Oetz provides a wide range of easy tours particularly for beginners. In the left and very right part rather easy and pleasurably climbs are to be found, whereas ambitious climbing takes place in the overhangs of the middle part. With the new sector "Lauser" the climbing garden offers optimal conditions for children and families. Unfortunately, the Mogli sector had to be dismantled due to safety structures.
The rocks of the climbing garden Oberried are located at the west end of the valley basin in Längenfeld. The numerous easy routes are a special experience also thanks to the bordering pastures. No matter if steep overhangs or classic crack dihedrals, Oberried is always worth a visit. Especially families combine the climbing garden with a beautiful trip into the Ötztal.
The beautifully located climbing garden lies at the foot of the Brunnenkogl in the middle of the Ötztal mountains and especially provides a lot of possibilities for beginners. Climbing and hiking can be well combined in this area. However, due to the south-western exposition it can get quite warm in the summer. The pleasant and far off from the centre located area invites its visitor to retreat from the everyday stress and is especially suitable for family climbing trips. There is also a short but very rewarding via ferrata here.
Prominent rock face located south-west of the Winnebachsee Hut (10 min. away). Absolute solid, easy to hold on to granite in a beautiful surrounding. Very suitable for beginners.
The Winnebachsee Hut is also a popular starting point for ski tours.
Information
Tenant: Michael Riml (6444 Längefeld, Gries 30)
Telephone: +43 5353 5197
E-mail: info@winnebachseehuette.com
Beautifully located, high-Alpine climbing garden. The view across the surrounding, glacier-covered three-thousanders is terrific.
The routes are short and well-secured.
Multi-pitch routes in Ötztal
The Ötztal, one of the few granite climbing areas in Tyrol, is exactly the right place for your new project. Spectacular multi-pitch routes await you along the valley, from the Geierwand in Haiming and the Burgsteinwand near Längenfeld to the top spots in Nösslach near Längenfeld and on the Engelswand near Tumpen. Lots of fantastic, well-secured multi-pitch routes in bombproof rock, which rise up in front of you after a short approach.
Decades of climbing expertise
Our decades of climbing expertise have created a climbing destination that is hard to beat. Back in the 1980s, Reinhard Schiestl († 1995) from Längenfeld began developing the climbing routes. The Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata on the Burgsteinwand rock face near Längenfeld is a reminder of the pioneer's achievements.
In addition to the dense network of routes, the Ötztal scores points with certified local guides who support your ambitions - no matter how big they are. Maximum goal: conquering one of the so-called “Great Lines”. Of the five officially most ingenious sport climbing routes in Tirol, two are located in Ötztal. The “Le Miracle” route in Niederthai and the multi-faceted “Weißer Riese” climbing route in the Nösslach climbing garden.
Frequently asked questions
The standard equipment includes helmet, climbing shoes, climbing harness, rope, belaying device, carabiners, quickdraws, sling & carabiner, chalk bag & chalk, backpack and a climbing guide or topo. Depending on your preferences, you can also take climbing gloves with you. A first aid kit, enough to drink, snacks, tape and a warm jacket are in the backpack which is sized to suit your sporty activities. For high Alpine activities - always depending on the weather forecast - even more spare clothing, sun and rain protection.
A climbing garden is a climbing facility on natural rock faces that has a certain number of (single-rope) routes at varied degrees of difficulty (reference numbers: 10 routes or more at a distance of approx. 3 - 5 m). Suitable rock faces are equipped with bolts, deflector devices and other belaying items in such a way that sport climbers can belay themselves with little effort. Compared to the via ferrata, a sport climbing route is conquered without the use of any artificial aids. The anchor points and climbing harnesses, ropes, carabiners etc. only serve as fall protection.
Climbing gardens are mostly set up near the valley floor or near mountain huts and have short, easy access routes. Apart from falling rocks, there are usually no typical Alpine dangers. The climbing gardens routes are shorter (approx. 15 to 100 meters) compared to Alpine climbing routes and classified according to levels of difficulty. You can find this grading as well as the description of the routes from climbing guides or online topographic maps. In Ötztal there are 20 climbing gardens where beginners, children and advanced but also absolute climbing aces will find their dream route for sure.
Close-fitting climbing shoes with special soles offer a very good grip. In contrast to the climbing hall, where softer shoes are used, stiffer climbing shoes are suitable for rock climbing. These can be set very precisely, give the foot good support and promise better performance on small edges, as you often find on natural rock.
For the approach to a climbing garden, so-called approach shoes are suitable. These are sturdy low shoes that prove themselves on a variety of terrain. Make sure you have a flexible upper material, breathability and a solid lacing system. When Alpine climbing in high altitudes, boot-like shoes provide better support. In Ötztal you will find 20 climbing gardens which you can take under the Vibram soles, all of them located between the valley entrance in Haiming and its rear end in Gurgl.
Given their great popularity, climbing gardens have a low risk of life-threatening or fatal injuries - provided safety equipment is used correctly. Although you are always belayed when sport climbing, you can still fall a few meters deep into the rope and seriously injure yourself from the impact on the rock. Other sources of danger are loose stones and sudden weather changes. Join experienced climbing partners, check your equipment regularly, internalize its correct use and only climb when you feel 100 percent fit! Special tip: the 20 climbing gardens in Ötztal offer hundreds of perfectly secured sport climbing routes at all difficulty levels.