Via Ferratas
1 valley, 10 via ferratas & panorama galore
The wire rope shows the way up - how steep all of a sudden! It doesn't matter, because you are protected at all times and will be rewarded for your courage many times over. On the 10 via ferrata routes in Ötztal you can climb unique vertical landscapes and views. And what’s best? From family-friendly to challenging, our via ferratas are suitable for all abilities.
Routes
Via ferratas for families and beginners
The Piburg practice via ferrata on the western shore of lake Piburger See is just perfect for first attempts. With a route length of almost 200 m and a difference in height of about 28 m, the lovely ferrata can be climbed in around 15 minutes.
You can take it to the next level on the Stuibenfall via ferrata in Umhausen. To climb this spectacular via ferrata along the waterfall, you need some experience, sure-footedness, a good head for heights and physical fitness. Children aged 9 and over and 1.40 meters tall can come along.
Other easy climbing adventures in Ötztal include the Haiming/Geierwand via ferrata, the Zirbenwald via ferrata in Obergurgl-Hochgurgl and the Moosalm via ferrata in Sölden.
Please note: even though we are talking about easy via ferratas, don't forget that you enter exposed alpine terrain and need to have 100% control over your equipment. Be honest with yourself. If in doubt, it is better to rely on the experience of a professional mountain or climbing guide in order to enjoy your via ferrata tour even more. A complete via ferrata equipment set is an absolute must!
Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata & Lehner wasserfall
On the rock face of Burgsteinwand near Längenfeld, Ötztal’s most difficult via ferrata climbs over 200 m up an almost vertical granite wall. Wonderfully exposed, but secured throughout with wire ropes, clamps and footholds, the Reinhard Schiestl via ferrata offers tremendous views of the Stubai and Ötztal Alps. Perfect spots: the two rest areas in the wall.
Pure nature also flanks you on the well-secured Lehner Wasserfall via ferrata. After a steep climb over the vertical to slightly overhanging access wall, you can rarely catch your breath as further steep passages and crossings demand all your skills. Above you will find two variants. A highlight for absolute experts runs to the left, but the original route to the right of the waterfall will also put your stamina and skills to the test. Give it your all, you have almost done it!
Schwärzenkamm via ferrata
The best view comes at the end, specifically at the very end of the valley. On the fabulous Schwärzenkamm via ferrata in Gurgl’s glacier world, a sensational panorama accompanies you over 350 altitude meters on a length of 700 m. Because of the high alpine altitude and northern orientation, this route requires a lot of experience. Good to know: two emergency exits allow you to shorten the route.
Special tip: take your (e-)bike up to Langtalereckhütte and shorten the walk to the access point of the via ferrata.
Frequently asked questions
Complete via ferrata equipment includes a climbing harness, a via ferrata set (comprising two carabiners, a shock absorbing lanyard and a connection to the harness) and a rockfall helmet. You also need sturdy mountain boots and climbing gloves. A first aid kit and, depending on the route, enough to eat and drink as well as clothing appropriate for the weather. Special tip: pack as lightly as possible, you have to carry the weight up vertically! In addition to the material equipment, courage, skill and a good head for heights are absolutely necessary. You can find an even more detailed description of the right via ferrata equipment HERE.
A via ferrata on natural rock is continuously secured with steel cables and iron pins from access point to exit. Therefore, the climbing path is exactly defined and features artificial handholds and step aids (ladders, brackets, etc.). Complete via ferrata equipment is absolutely required for climbing via ferratas - without any exception. Via ferratas are divided into categories ranging from A (not very difficult) to E (extremely difficult) according to their difficulty level. The 10 via ferratas in Ötztal are sure to offer a suitable challenge to all ages!
Via ferrata gloves fulfill two important tasks: they protect the hands and ensure a better grip on the steel cable. Even cheap working gloves can do a good job. However, special climbing gloves are adapted to the requirements of climbing and protect your hands from severe injuries and burns when abseiling. You can choose between half-finger climbing gloves, which give your fingers more feeling, and full-finger climbing gloves, which also protect the sensitive fingertips. Climbing gloves with a free thumb and index finger are another alternative. In terms of material, there are leather and synthetic gloves. The former are a bit more expensive and stiffer at the beginning, but much more durable.
Important when buying: pay attention to the right fit, the material and the processing quality. You can get expert advice in the Ötztal sports shops and slip into the various models before buying.
If you rarely walk an easy via ferrata, normal mountain boots will do a good job. If you are drawn to the rocks more often, it is best to purchase sturdy, comfortable via ferrata boots. They are made of high-quality, water-repellent and breathable materials - from the solid grip sole to the upper material. Depending on whether you often have long ascents, are aiming for very sporty or even high Alpine via ferratas, you will be happy with different boots. As a rough guide: the more direct contact with the rock, the softer the boot should be. The more you climb in high Alpine terrain, the stiffer (and crampon-compatible) your shoes should be. In general, it is also true that a high shaft that extends over the ankle provides better protection against twisting. Additionally, the boots must be firm and still fit comfortably. A well-adjustable lacing that extends far to the front is quite advantageous. In terms of weight: less is more! The sports shops in Ötztal offer expert advice in addition to a large selection of climbing equipment.
Compared to the high number of climbers, via ferratas have a low risk of life-threatening or fatal injuries if the safety equipment is used correctly. The protection offered by a via ferrata set should not neglect the fact that you can fall a few meters deep, depending on where you are on the wire rope safety device. Especially if you hit the rock it can be very painful.
The most common safety hazards on via ferratas include outdated safety devices, brittle rock, a lack of safety distance between climbers, lack of surefootedness (risk of falling rocks!) as well as overconfidence, lack of concentration, excessive demands or peer pressure. Correct use of the climbing harness and via ferrata set as well as careful tour planning, tailored to the weather report and the climbing skills of all participants, are essential.
All climbing routes in Ötztal are regularly checked and maintained in order to exclude safety deficiencies to the best of our knowledge and belief. Should you still notice a loose stepladder, handhold or similar dangers along the route, please report it directly to Ötztal Tourismus!
Slings (60 or 90 centimeters in length) with a carabiner are part of the basic climbing equipment. In addition to the via ferrata set, they are threaded through the tie-in loop of the climbing harness and serve to take a short rest on the via ferrata and to additionally secure the climber in difficult spots (for example in traverse sections or when taking photos). Before you sit down in the harness during a break, you attach this sling to the wire rope using a rope carabiner in addition to the via ferrata set. Caution: during vertical climbing, the sling must not be hooked into the rope, as in the event of a fall you would get the full impact force in an undamped way!
For a successful via ferrata tour you need the following: climbing harness, via ferrata set, climbing helmet, locking sling (consisting of sling & locking carabiner), climbing backpack and sturdy shoes. Gloves are also recommended – either half-finger or full-finger models, depending on your preferences. In the backpack you should put a first aid kit, sun protection, detailed tour description, water and energy in the form of muesli bars etc. Dress according to the season and the weather, light rainwear and wind protection should always be at hand. Depending on whether you are going on a short, sporty via ferrata in Ötztal or a high Alpine via ferrata with a longer ascent route, such as Schwärzenkamm via ferrata near Gurgl, your equipment will be lighter or more voluminous.